Exmouth and the Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia

 Hi everyone, I hope you and yours are doing well. 

Last time I took you to Coral Bay and the Ningaloo Reef along Western Australia's Coral Coast. If you missed it you can see it here - What I Discovered Exploring Western Australia's Coral Coast

From Coral Bay we continued up the North West Cape to Exmouth and the Cape Range National Park - here is a map to orientate yourself. Exmouth is 1,252 kilometres from Perth - allow two days, stopping overnight somewhere on the way. 

It is only 152 kilometres from Coral Bay to Exmouth - not far by Western Australia standards, and we stopped off in Exmouth to fuel up and do some grocery shopping before heading around the top of North West Cape to our caravan park at Yardie Homestead Caravan Park, about 35 kilometres from Exmouth, arriving around 12 noon. We have stayed here a couple of times before, there is plenty of space, and were given a part shade spot to set up. 

Located just out of the Cape Range National Park on the western side of the North West Cape, the caravan park has many facilities including a cafe and swimming pool, and you can take a walk along one of the tracks. 

You might even see a Tawny Frogmouth sitting on its nest and pretending to be a branch! 

After lunch we drove down to the Milyering Ningaloo Discovery Centre, about 20 kilometres from Yardie Homestead, to collect information and find out about the tides and conditions for snorkelling. 

The Ningaloo Reef is one of the largest fringing coral reefs in the world stretching over 230km. There are many opportunities for snorkelling, but you need to be aware of the height of the tides - particularly at the Oyster Stacks where the coral is near the surface. We need to be aware and protect the reef, so please take note of signage and be particularly aware of snorkelling times at Oyster Stacks. Unfortunately the suitable times were very early in the morning, around sunrise, during our visit, so didn't suit us. 

There are several places along the coast where you can snorkel and camp. We have previously enjoyed snorkelling Turquoise Bay but this time the the drift current was a bit strong, so we didn't stay in for long. You need to be careful of the drift that takes you to point and then out to sea. 

We drove down a bit further along the coast checking out some of the other beaches and camping spots, before returning to our caravan at Yardie Homestead Caravan Park, and made our plans for the next day. 

Snorkelling in the shallows at Turquoise Bay

The next morning we went for a 2 hour boat cruise and snorkel on the View Ningaloo Sub Sea Explorer which we climbed on board from the Tantabiddi jetty, about 5 kilometres from Yardie Homestead. 

The sub-sea explorer is a semi-submersible boat, the only one of its kind in Western Australia. Different to a glass-bottom boat where you sit and look through a glass floor, in the sub-sea explorer you are sitting under the level of the water and look out the windows. Very cool, particularly for children and those who can't snorkel. If you click on the link you can see all about it. 

The 2 hour cruise included snorkelling time. They supply snorkels, facemasks, fins, floaty tubes - everything you need. The girls who ran the cruise were very knowledgeable and helpful and we had a lovely morning. Information boards inside the boat showed some of the fish we might see. 

I asked our guide about the marine heatwave and the bleaching of the Ningaloo Reef coral. She said some say 60% of the reef has been lost - some say 80%. It could take 10 years to recover as long as there wasn't another marine heatwave. If you missed my last blog post - you might want to go back and read about global warming and the marine heatwave that has caused the devastating coral bleaching. What I discovered exploring Western Australia's Coral Coast 

The water we were snorkelling in was deeper than we had snorkelled from the shore, and because I only snorkel on the surface I couldn't get any closer photos. But my husband says that you need a weight belt if you want to dive down to take photos. Can you see the little blue fish in this photo - I think these are the Neon Damsel fish. 

I highly recommend this tour with View Ningaloo Sub-Sea Explorer if you are in Exmouth. 

We also snorkelled off the beach at Osprey Bay, as we had been told there were lots of turtles there. We only saw one and he was swimming away so fast he obviously had an appointment elsewhere! I am not sure if you can see the turtle in this photo very well - I only momentarily saw him out of the corner of my eye, turned, and quickly snapped the pic before he disappeared. It probably depends on the time of day you are there to see the turtles. 

You can camp with a caravan or tent at Osprey and it looks to be very popular. You need to pre-book your camping spot on-line with DBCA at the various locations in the National Park. 

Between October and January turtles nest on the beaches of the Ningaloo Marine Park and hatchlings appear from January to April. Turtle eco-education tours operate from the Jurabi Turtle Centre, 14 kilometres from Yardie Homestead, over the summer months from December to March. 

Marine Turtles are threatened species, and the Ningaloo Marine Park offers a fantastic opportunity to learn about and see them in their natural environment. I was amazed how big they are and it was certainly a highlight to see them on the beach on a visit we had to Exmouth years ago. These photos are from that trip. Please do not disturb them. The right hand photo is turtle tracks. 

The 50,581 hectare Cape Range National Park is not just about coral. There are also many walking trails to explore and following good winter rains the wildflowers put on a spectacular show.  The best displays are from June to October.

This is the spectacular Sturt Desert Pea - Swainsona formosa

And beautiful pinky-purple Mulla Mulla. The large one is Ptilotus exaltatus

You'll probably see emus as you drive through the park. They have colour variations depending on the environment they live in. Desert dwellers are lighter in colour. You might even see an emu wandering around the town of Exmouth. 

At the end of the bitumen through Cape Range National Park, a one hour boat cruise along Yardie Creek is a leisurely way to view the multicoloured cliffs of the Gorge and its wildlife including Osprey and Rock Wallabies or you can explore it from above along the walk trail. You need to book ahead, and allow plenty of time to get there - about 56 kilometres from Yardie Homestead Caravan Park. Allow at least one hour travel. (88kms from Exmouth - allow an hour and a half)

Below is an endangered Black Flanked Rock Wallaby, a shy nocturnal wallaby that is well equipped for its life on cliff faces. It was so lovely to see them bounding around the rocks of the gorge. 

And this is a Western bower bird decorating its bower to attract a lady

There are also walk trails in the Cape Range National Park. But please aware of the advertised degree of difficulty, your own fitness and ability, and the weather, the length of the walk, wear a hat, carry water and wear good hiking boots.  

We did the Mandu Mandu Gorge walk (35 kms from Yardie Homestead) and didn't take enough notice of the degree of difficulty signage, and it could have gone horribly wrong, but I am fortunately here to tell the tale, so it worked out ok in the end. I won't attempt a Class 4 walk again. 

The walk trail through Mandu Mandu Gorge first takes you along an ancient rocky river bed before returning back along the rim of the Gorge from where you will have spectacular views of Ningaloo coast and the surrounding country. 

Can you see the rock wallaby in the below left image? 

There are very steep sections along the rim walk and you need a reasonable degree of fitness and agility. I don't have many photos of the rim walk as I was too concerned with clambering and climbing up and slithering down rock faces. I was very relieved to get to the end of the walk. Yes the view to the ocean was spectacular. 

Charles Knife Gorge and Shothole Canyons are a short drive south of Exmouth (about 30 kilometres) on the eastern side of the Cape Range.  

The road through Shothole travels through the dry creek bed offering a close look at the colourful rock layers of the canyon walls, whilst a drive along the ridge of Charles Knife Gorge to Thomas Carter Lookout produces sweeping views of the Gorge and Exmouth Gulf.  Around each corner the view is more spectacular than the last, and pull off areas allow you to stop and enjoy the views.

 This photo is views along the Charles Knife Gorge road 

This is Shot Hole Canyon 

With the continental shelf only kilometres offshore, Exmouth and Coral Bay are fishing meccas, and there are plenty of opportunities for land based and boat fishing, but be aware of the Marine Park Sanctuary Zones. There are over 30 game fish species, and you can take advantage of Western Australia’s premier game fishing destination by joining a fishing charter.

Fresh seafood is always on the menu in Exmouth and Coral Bay, and you can't go past a delicious box of fresh Exmouth Gulf Prawns. On our last two visits to Exmouth we have purchased from the Fresh Fish Shack

North West Cape was once a Naval Base and shipping in Exmouth Gulf was bombed by Japanese aircraft in 1943. You can visit the Potshot Memorial near the launching place of the Krait and the Z Force’s “Operation Jaywick” which left from here in 1943 to destroy Japanese enemy shipping in Singapore.

At the end of the day, drive out to Vlamingh Head Lighthouse on the tip of North West Cape, to watch the sunset or to spot Humpback Whales during their annual migration June to November. 

At the lighthouse, which was built in 1912, you can see the remains of a WW2 Aircraft Warning Radar. From the Cape you can also just see the fires from the gas platforms on the edge of the horizon. 

There are many information panels for you to read more about the history of the lighthouse and WW2 history. 

Over the years the dangerous coastline around the North West Cape contributed to a number of shipwrecks on the reefs. One of these was the SS Mildura. In 1907 the ship had foundered at Point Murat losing all livestock but without the loss of human life. Recognition by shipping authorities of the need for a substantial navigational warning system led to the construction of the lighthouse on Vlamingh Head. 

Today there is a Naval Communication Station Harold E. Holt base 6 kilometres north of Exmouth. This is a joint Australian and United States naval communication station. The station features thirteen tall radio towers which you can see near the tip for North West Cape. The tallest tower is called Tower Zero and is 387.4 metres (1,271 ft) tall. There are information panels at the SS Mildura lookout. 

On our last evening we drove over to the beach for a sunset wander. 

Exmouth has grocery stores, bakery, Visitor Information Centre, museum, tourist shops, swimming pool, caravan parks, resorts, restaurants, repair businesses - all that a visitor would need. You can also visit the Ningaloo Tourist Information Centre and the Ningaloo Aquarium and Discovery Centre. 

Here is a list of 75 things to do in Exmouth - even taking a microlight flight! Things to do in Exmouth

Best time to visit is April to November depending on what you want to do. Avoid summer December to March when it is scorching hot. I suggest booking accommodation well ahead of your planned visit - ie up to 6 months ahead. 

Below is a photo of a termite mound - of which you will see many on North West Cape. 

More information:

Explore Parks WA 

Ningaloo Turtle Program

Bird Flower 

Yardie Creek Boat Tours

Mandu Mandu Gorge

Exmouth Attractions

Ultimate Guide to Exmouth

Ningaloo Visitor Centre, Exmouth - Things to Do and See

Australia's Coral Coast - Exmouth

Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope you have enjoyed this visit to Exmouth on Western Australia's North West Cape. Next time we visit Shark Bay and Monkey Mia. 

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