Salvatore Bellini - Cefalu, Sicily

The mournful strains of accordion music drift slowly up through the filtered early morning light and seeps into my consciousness. I turn over and pull around me the delicious folds of the feather quilt. The music is a sound I hear every morning. It wakes me gently with its soft kiss.

I stretch, and rising, walk across the cool tiled floor to fling open the window, and leaning out turn my face towards the crisp sea air; it’s salty moisture coming to me on the gentle breeze to settle on my face. Along the waterfront I can see the old man sitting on his stool in his usual place in front of the high stone wall. I cannot see his face, as it is hidden by the shadow of his cap, but I know his lined face looks as worn as the open leather suitcase by his side.

Salvatore Bellini. Every morning he cycles his bike along the winding cobbled streets through Cefalu and takes up his position here on the waterfront. As he plays he looks longingly out across the water. He is playing for the love of his life Antonella, who was lost in the sea between Italy and Sicily during the dark days of the last war: and perhaps in the hope his music will bring her back to him.

I had rented an apartment for the summer in the medieval town of Cefalu on Sicily’s north coast and had met Salvatore on the day that I arrived. Drawn by the music I had followed the sound and found him. As he played his haunting tune he was gazing out to sea with such a look of yearning in his blue eyes that a tear had escaped unbidden from my eyes. And at that instant he had looked up at me and smiled.

Travel Writing and Photography Course - Fremantle, 7-8 March 2009

Last weekend I attended a travel writing and photography course run by writer John Harman, and photographer Dale Neill. The piece you read above - Salvatore Bellini - is an entirely fictitious piece I wrote from the photo you see of the accordian player taken by Abigail Harman. To log onto John, Dale and Abigail's sites please refer to my web links.

Crepes in Fremantle

With a practised hand Antoinette ladles the creamy batter onto the sizzling plate. At the window a young girl sits transfixed watching her swirling the mixture evenly into a thin round circle and then flipping it over with a long spatula.

Antoinette smiles at the girl and the smile lights up her face. Every weekend at the markets she stands here before the steaming hot stone pouring, smoothing and flipping to create the crepes that will make their way into the mouths of the gathering crowd: the creperi has a reputation for good food and people are willing wait.

It is a long way from Antoinette’s village in Tuscany and the well scrubbed wooden table in her grandmother’s kitchen and the young girl reminds Antoinette of home. She smiles to herself and softly speaks a few words in Italian.

The Fremantle markets attract hundreds of people every weekend. They come for bargains, fresh fruit and vegetables, a special gift perhaps. It is a vibrant hive of bustling life, colour, sights, sounds, smells and languages. A moving kaleidoscope.

For Antoinette it is the start of a new life far away from her homeland.

The character is entirely fictitious, but to taste delicious crepes please visit Michelle's Crepe Suzettes at the Fremantle Markets Saturday's and Sundays.

Fitness Focus - Dragon Boating

Dragon boating has been a huge part of my life and my family's life since I joined a crew in Bunbury early 1990. I enjoy the fast pace and high energy of the sport, as well as the social side of it. Ideally you need 16-20 people to paddle a boat, so it is a great way to meet people. When I first started I never imagined that I would dragon boat at an international competition - but I did so in Hong Kong, Macau and Penang.

But what is dragon boating? Click on the Forza Dragon Boat tab opposite to find out more about the sport and my club and to read other articles I have written about the sport , including the full version of this one which I wrote for Perth Vita magazine, published March 2009...........

DRAGON BOATING...........

It’s exciting, colourful, explosive, high energy, and adrenalin fuelled and dragon boat racing is getting people fit and fired up across Australia.

What is dragon boating?

Dragon boating began in China as an occasion to drive off evil spirits and pestilence, to find peace and to supplicate the God of Water to prevent disaster and bring good fortune. The festival was later enriched by the legend of poet Qu Yuan in 296BC during the Chou dynasty.

It is now one of world’s fastest growing sports and it is sweeping across 55 countries around the world.

Up to 20 paddlers per crew, both men and women, sit in pairs side by side in a 12 metre long, 1.2 metre wide boat, paddling with woo

den, plastic or kevlar paddles, and steered by a sweep using a long oar. A drummer sits on the front and beats the time on a drum. The boat is decorated with a dragon head and tail. Races are usually held over 200, 500 or 1000 metres although longer races do occur.

The sport is explosive, high energy, adrenalin charged and exciting as the boats charge down the course, crews urged on by their sweeps, water flying from paddles, drums banging, only split seconds separating the lead crews.

African Experience - Soft Option

There are two intros to this African Experience - which one do you like best.......... 

Relax..........

Perfect luxurious quietness. A soft breeze rustles the leaves of the Jackalberry Trees accompanying a bird’s song. A herd of impala graze in the long dry grass, their gentle faces looking up to stare at me. A pair of young warthogs chew on the sweet green grass near our hut. In the distance the clink of glasses, the splash of water in the pool, and happy laughter. I nestle further into my deckchair, enjoying the tranquillity.

It’s mid afternoon on another idyllic day at Jackalberry Lodge, and I am sitting on the veranda of our hut, looking out across the grass to the bush beyond. Soon I will rouse myself, collect my camera, and go to join the others for afternoon tea before going on our evening game drive. But not just yet.

We’re staying at Jackalberry Lodge in the Thornybush Game Reserve, which spreads over 65 thousand acres, near Kruger National Park in South Africa, one of Africa’s premier game viewing areas. Whether you want peace and relaxation, the bush experience, or are here to see the animals and take photos, honeymooners, couples and families, young and old, all can enjoy the African bush experience at Jackalberry. 

OR - Adventure.........

Suddenly he was in front of us. His massive grey bulk emerged, ears flapping, from behind a thorn bush. Amazing how something so big could be so well hidden by a few bare twigs.  He pawed the earth with his foot and shaking his head, crashed through the thorn-bush towards us, stopping 10 metres from our vehicle.

Lifting his trunk he tested the air and then showered us with a cloud of sand.  Ndlobu, the elephant.

The elephant crossed the track in front of us, and faced us again, still pawing the ground and flapping his ears menacingly.  He tested the air again with his trunk, leant his weight against a small tree bending it over, then trampled on a broken off tree stump.  Grant, our guide, said the elephant was demonstrating his strength to us. 

Mario, our native tracker, calmly sat on the front of the vehicle, a bemused expression on his face.

When our guide Grant, moved our vehicle slowly down the track, the elephant immediately came onto the track, following us and quickening his pace to a trot.  As the vehicle pulled away, the elephant stopped, and threw up one last cloud of sand.  Flapping his ears, he clearly believed he had won.  

 



It was only one of the many incredible experiences we had during our stay at Jackalberry.  I cannot begin to describe the feeling you have when a lion at close quarters stares directly into your eyes.  You just have to become submissive and look away.  You cannot hold that intense gaze.   

We travelled to Africa and stayed at the Jackalberry Lodge at the Thornybush Game Reserve near Kruger National Park in September 2002. Our hosts Grant, Angie and Noleen gave us an incredible experience we will never forget.

Read the "relax" edition of this story in Australian Vital magazine May 2004, or for the story with the elephant intro read Australian Photography-Back page November 2004 

Go Camping Western Australia

Bird song heralds the dawn. In the distance we hear the rumble of the first of the day’s road trains on the highway. A flock of pink and grey galahs swoop down along the river as the sun sends its tendrils out across the red dirt and through the trees to our campsite on the bank of the Gascoyne River.

We are camped 958 kilometres north of Perth where the Gascoyne River crosses the Great Northern Highway in Western Australia’s Pilbara region. This is a designated camping spot popular with travellers going north, and is just one of the free camping places outlined in Sue and Steve Collis’ book “The Guide to Free-Camping in the North of WA”, one of a set of three books that Sue and Steve have written detailing free camping places in Western Australia and Tasmania.

What advice do they have for someone who hasn’t camped before? Sue laughs, “Camp in the backyard first. It’s amazing, some people are just not built for camping, and they just don’t like it. People need to know that’s what they want to do. Take a short trip first would be good advice. A weekend trip to get the feel of it especially before you go north or anywhere like that”.

Steve agrees, “Rather than going out and spending thirty or fifty thousand dollars on a caravan, hire one and get a feel for it first. Some people get out there and they hate it, but on the other hand there are a lot of people that just love it”.

Sue says what she enjoys about camping is the space and getting back to basics. “Sitting around a camp fire, communicating and getting back to basics. How it makes you feel. It’s very relaxing sitting out under the stars. It’s lovely. There’s nothing nicer than getting out there and camping. Give us some space and we’re happy.”

These photos show some of our favourite camping spots around Western Australia. To read this complete article, please see Go Camping Australia magazine Summer 2006 edition.

Images from France, July 2005

In 2005 we were invited to France by a good friend, who showed us some of her favourite places. Here are a few images I would like to share with you.

Butterfly on Lavender at the Nortre Dame de Senanque Abbey, where lavender oil is distilled from the fields of lavender. The smell of the lavender all around you as you walk through the fields is intoxicating and heaven for someone like me who loves lavender.

In Provence we visited the delightful town of La Baux de Provence which clings to the mountain side. We spent several hours here exploring the tiny streets and buying gifts to take home.

 



















 

Catherine de Medici's garden, Chenonceaux Chateau, Loire Valley. We spent a few hours here exploring this beautiful Chateau and garden. The Chateau spans the water and was a safe zone and military hospital during World War 1.
After exploring we tried some local wines in the "cave" and then enjoyed coffee and cake and visited the farm garden.


   

Having seen Monet's fantastic water lily paintings, Monet's Garden at Giverney was on my "must see" list. The garden and the water lilies were stunning.










The amazing and historic walled city of Carcassonne.

and my favourite fountain at Versailles - Bassin d'Apollon

Echoes of the Axe - The Old Timberline Trail, St John Brook Conservations Park, Nannup, Western Australia

Stillness. The glow of the morning light filters through the trees catching the sparkle of dew drops. The trees lean over the water to look at their perfect reflections. A tiny wren, in a flash of blue and red, lands and then is gone again.

Silence envelopes us where once the bush echoed with the sounds of axe and saw, the falling of the giant trees, the shouts of workers, and the timber trains rumbling over the lines. The jarrah trees have reclaimed their land, wildflowers brighten the undergrowth, and now only birdsong or a kangaroo rustling the bushes breaks the silence.

We are in the St John Brook Conservation Park near Nannup in Western Australia’s south west, walking on the Old Timberline Trail, a moderately easy 20 kilometre walk and cycle trail between Nannup and Cambray Siding. Part of a network of reserves across the state, the Park helps to preserve the riverine ecosystem and biodiversity of sheoak, bull banksia, jarrah and marri trees, swamp peppermint and wonnich scrub which supports around 38 bird species, eleven mammals and many other creatures.

Nannup’s history has been greatly influenced by the railway line and the timber industry. First settled by Europeans in 1857, Nannup was one of the most isolated places in Western Australia until the opening of the railway line in 1909.

The Timberline Trail follows part of an extensive network of disused forestry railway lines that once transported timber hauled by wood fired steam driven locomotives from bush camps to Barrabup Timber Mill and then to Busselton Jetty for export during the early 20^th Century.

The Trail can be broken into sections making it ideal for day or overnight walks. The Trail is marked by white triangular signs displaying an axe and interpretive signage along the way gives walkers a historical insight into the timber industry and the life of the timber cutters. The majority of the railway sleepers have been removed but a few can still be seen along the Trail.

To read this complete story, see "Go Camping Australia" magazine, Autumn 2009.

The wildflowers are blooming on the Bibbulmun Track

WESTERN AUSTRALIA, August 2008.

We are just back from an overnighter on the Bibbulmun Track near Collie. For those with a love of wildflowers, this is the best time to be out on the track as you can see from the following photos. I hope you enjoy them.

Dryandra - Woodland Wonderland, Western Australia

DRYANDRA WOODLAND, CENTRAL WHEATBELT, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Blinking in the afternoon sunlight the doe gazed at me with big soft brown eyes, her large ears turned in my direction. Her distended belly and a protruding foot and tail showed she was carrying a precious cargo. She reached down and touched the foot. It kicked, twisted and disappeared followed by the tail. The lump jostled with itself and then a head popped out of its furry hole and two ears twitched. Some of the mob had already bounded a short distance away, and not wanting to disturb their afternoon feeding, we continued across the clearing and down the walk trail through the wandoo trees.

The doe was a Western Grey Kangaroo and it is early October and we are in the Dryandra Woodland, two hours south of Perth, and 22 kilometres north west of Narrogin in Western Australia’s central wheatbelt. Rich in bird and animal life and wildflowers, Dryandra is one of the largest remaining woodland areas in the wheatbelt.

It is springtime and we have travelled to Dryandra from our home in Bunbury for a weekend of camping, bushwalking, and for me to photograph wildflowers. It is a perfect weekend location, an easy drive from home. Leaving Bunbury early on Saturday we reach Dryandra within two hours and have already set up camp by mid morning at the Congelin campsite near the Congelin Railway Dam on the western side of Dryandra.

Western Australia’s Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) has established seven walk trails throughout Dryandra suitable for all levels of fitness and ranging in length from one to 13 kilometres and a 27 kilometre trail for horse riders. The trails focus on different aspects of the area and feature the diversity of vegetation and wildlife. The Ochre Trail describes Nyoongar culture in the Dryandra area and features an ochre pit used by Aboriginal people for decoration.

Dryandra’s woodlands of white-barked wandoo, powderbark, brown mallet and thickets of rock sheoak are a prime habitat for birds and native animals. Springtime is the best time to visit when the woodlands erupt in a profusion of wildflowers including the prolific Poison Bush (Gastrolobium) and the Golden Dryandra (Dryandra nobilis).

To read this entire article, see "Go Camping Australia" magazine, Winter 2007

Red Rock & Spinifex, Karijini, Western Australia

KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK, PILBARA, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

The only thing that breaks the silence of the piccaninny dawn at Karijini is an orchestra of birdsong and the effect is simply stunning.

By 6.30am we had walked to the rim of the gorge to watch the sun rise. The birdsong was an overture for what we were about to witness on central stage.

Before us we watched the sky turn from pinks and mauves to orange and yellow, and then as the sun’s rays shot over the eastern horizon I turned to see the mountain behind me come alive and light up an incredibly rich, vibrant red. Whilst at my feet the Spinifex heads turned to gold.

We were at Dales Gorge in the heart of Karijini National Park in the Hamersley Ranges in Western Australia’s central Pilbara district.

Western Australia's second biggest national park, Karijini covers 627,445 hectares. Much of the southern half of the park is inaccessible, so visitors concentrate on the spectacular and rugged gorges in the north that plunge hundreds of metres from the Spinifex plains.

It is a wonderful place for walking, sightseeing, photography, camping, swimming and observing nature.

There are a number of gorges and walk trails to explore at Karijini. These range from short, easy walks for people of all ages and fitness levels, tracks for those with moderate fitness, to trails which should only be attempted by fit, experienced, well-equipped bushwalkers.

Fortescue Falls in Dale's Gorge is spring-fed and is the Park’s only permanent waterfall. The Falls tumble over layers of iron-stone rock from the tree lined Fern Pool. A wooden walkway takes you right to the waters edge and the pool is a perfect place to sit in the shade or have a swim to cool off.

The trail following the creek from Fortescue Falls to Circular Pool is not difficult and visitors should allow a day to fully experience the Gorge. Built up over millions of years, the layers of multi-coloured rock of the cliff faces tower over clear rock pools and shady meandering pathways, which are a refreshing retreat from the arid Spinifex plains above you. There are plenty of places to sit and enjoy the beautiful landscape and to marvel at the Snappy Gums whose roots cling to the cliff walls, their white trunks in stark contrast to the red rocks.

The walk finishes at Circular Pool, a deep fern lined pool surrounded by sheer cliffs. Shaded most of the day by the gorge walls, the water is enticing, but icy cold.

To read this complete story, see "Australian Coast and Country" magazine, Autumn 2005