Autumn is creeping in to our corner of Western Australia. Whilst the days are still warm, they are without the brutal burning heat of summer, and the mornings and evenings have a crisp coolness to them. I welcome this coolness and cloudy days as it signals to me the start of bush-walking season.
A couple of weekends ago we revisited the Old Timberline Trail in the St John Brook Conservation Park near Nannup in Western Australia's south west. As we walked we were enveloped by eucalyptus perfume.
Walking along the Old Timberline Trail it is hard to
imagine its past. The echoes of axes and saws, the thud of falling trees, the
shouts of work men, and the rumbling of the timber trains over the lines have all
gone. Now only birdsong or the rustling of a kangaroo in the bushes breaks the
silence. Wildflowers brighten the undergrowth beneath the jarrah trees, and the flash
of blue and red of a tiny wren lands and then is gone in an instant.
First settled by Europeans in 1857, Nannup’s history revolves around the timber industry and the opening of the railway line in 1909.
The Timberline Trail is a moderately easy 20
kilometre walk and cycle trail between Nannup and Cambray Siding, following part
of an extensive network of disused forestry railway lines which once
transported timber hauled by wood fired steam driven locomotives from bush
camps to Barrabup Timber Mill and then to Busselton Jetty for export during the
early 20th Century.
The Trail, which can be broken into sections making it ideal
for day or overnight walks, is marked by white triangular signs displaying an
axe. Interpretive signage along the way
gives walkers a historical insight into the timber industry and the life of the
timber cutters. The majority of the
railway sleepers have been removed but a few can still be seen along the
Trail.
The first 10 kilometre section starts at the old railway
bridge in Nannup, crossing the Blackwood River near the caravan park and winding its way to the
Workman’s Pool campsite. From here it is 1.2 kilometres to Barrabup Pool where
there are camp sites higher up away from the water. Then 4 kilometres to
Sleeper Hewer’s camp where there is a timber overnight hut. From there it is 4.8 kilometres to Cambray
Siding.
The St John Brook Conservation Park helps to preserve the
riverine ecosystem and biodiversity of sheoak, bull banksia, jarrah and marri
trees, swamp peppermint and wonnich scrub which supports around 38 bird
species, eleven mammals and many other creatures. You will notice the changes in vegetation as
you walk along the trail. Although spring is the best time for wildflowers, there is always something flowering in the Australian bush. In June look for Banded Greenhood
Orchids growing in an old stumps by the track.
Below you can see pineapple bush, dryandra, coral fungi, banded greenhood orchid, eucalyptus, and banksia
Between Workman’s Pool and Barrabup Pool, the Trail follows
the ridge line above the Brook and then down through stands of wattle trees.
Barrabup Mill was built in this area in 1908, employing 150
men and producing 75 square metres of timber per day. The mill and township ceased to exist when
the mill was moved to Nannup in 1925.
A picnic area and platform overlooks tranquil Barrabup Pool.
This pool was once for the exclusive use of the Mill Manager’s family,
while the workers used Workman’s Pool. It
is now a popular swimming, recreation and picnic area. There is a path suitable for wheelchairs and prams, and also toilet
facilities.
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| Barrabup Pool |
From Barrabup Pool a bridge crosses St John’s Brook and
climbs up through jarrah and banksia trees to join the old railway track on the
ridge line above the Brook. It is a
shady easy walk. Not far along the track
deviates towards the Brook before looping back to the Potato Patch where
vegetables were once grown and transported to the Barrabup Mill Store by horse
and cart.
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| The Potato Patch |
After walking through an area of dryandra and a section
dominated by tall pineapple bushes, the track deviates to the right off the
main trail and goes steeply down to the Brook leading you to a disused timber
railway bridge spanning the gully. The
bridge was constructed by manual labour over 80 years ago. The huge beams were hewn
from trees at the site and the bridge built following rough plans that were
revised as the bridge progressed. Please
be aware of caution signs and do not venture out onto the bridge.
 |
| disused timber railway bridge |
From here the trail passes through an old rail cutting and brings you to Sleeper Hewer's camp situated above
two wide pools of the Brook. The fully enclosed overnight hut can accommodate
4-6 people on wooden bunks, and there are also tent sites. There is a water
tank at the hut, but I would recommend carrying water with you.
As the railways expanded, so did the demand for railway
sleepers. Prior to World War 1 there were around 800 sleeper cutters working in
the bush along the railway line between Nannup and Busselton. A sleeper cutter would be away from home a
week at a time, living on basic food supplies and sleeping in canvas tents or
simple wooden shelters in the bush.
The camp is a tranquil place where bird watchers will enjoy the variety of bird life. If
you stay overnight you may spot Brushtail Possums and hear the Tawny
Frogmouth and Banjo frogs.
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| Sleeper Hewer's Hut |
From the hut it is as easy walk to Cambray Siding. Whilst little remains at Cambray Siding, you
can see where the “navvy gangs” who travelled the railway lines repairing the
tracks once lived.
You can also see evidence of how the timber fellers worked,
felling 30 metres high and two metres wide trees by axe and saw whilst standing
on a plank inserted above the base of the tree. This required strength, skill
and fearlessness, making the timber fellers the glamour men of the industry.
 |
| Tree stump showing cuts where planks were inserted |
From here it is only a couple of minutes to the parking area
and the intersection with the old Nannup to Wonnerup railway line and the
Sidings Rail Trail. Part of the Munda Biddi bike trail from Perth to Albany,
this dual use cycle and walking trail runs from Jarrahwood to Nannup.
It is approximately 15 kilometres from here back to Nannup
along the Sidings Trail, or you could arrange transport to pick you up at
Cambray for your return to Nannup.
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| disused railway near old Cambray siding |
St John’s Brook is thought to have been a travel route for
the Aboriginal Noongar people. It is believed that Nannup means ‘a place to stop and
rest’. You can certainly still do that today in Nannup. Nestled on the banks of
the Blackwood River surrounded by forests and rolling farmland, Nannup is a quiet place to take time out.
The Nannup Visitor Centre can give you details of other
walks in the area, several of which start near the Visitor Centre, including
the Heritage Town Walk and Kondil Wildflower Walk. You can also canoeing and
fish in the Blackwood River or just relax with a book and a glass of local
wine. Well known for its gardens, the annual Nannup Flower and Garden Festival featuring
tulips and daffodils, bring visitors to Nannup every year.
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| Nannup on a quiet Sunday afternoon |
Whilst in Nannup, be on the look out for the famed Nannup
Tiger – the Thylacine – the largest known carnivorous marsupial, it is now
officially extinct, although stories still abound of its existence in the
forests around Nannup. Perhaps you may
see one along the Timberline Trail.
INFORMATION BOX
Where is it:
Nannup is located approximately 60 kilometres south-east of Busselton on the
Vasse Highway.
The “Old Timberline
Trail” is a 20 kilometre walk and cycle trail which commences from the old
railway bridge at the end of Brockman Street near the Nannup Visitor Centre,
travels through St John’s Conservation Park and ends at Cambray Siding.
Camping: Camping
is allowed at Workman’s Pool and Barrabup Pool: fees apply.
The hut Sleeper Hewer’s Camp can accommodated 4-6 people –
nil fees. Plus tent sites.
Nights can be very cold so bring warm clothing and bedding.
Accommodation in
Nannup: Nannup Caravan Park is situated adjacent to the Visitor Information
Centre in Brockman Street. There are
also various cottages and farm stays in the Nannup area.
For more information click on the links below -
Thank
you so much for stopping by. I hope you have enjoyed this walk down the old Timberline Trail. I value your comments and look forward to
hearing from you. I will try to visit your blogs in return. Have a
wonderful week.
I
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see fabulous contributions from around the world - virtual touring at
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