Cue - Queen of the Murchison - Western Australia

A couple of weeks ago I brought you the introduction to a series about a recent camping trip we did through Western Australia's inland Murchison and goldfields regions. You can click here to have a read if you missed it: Wildflower hunting and taking time out

Today I bring you part 2.  From Perth to Cue.

Heading up the Great Northern Highway from Perth we camped our first night on the road at Jibberding Nature Reserve 23 kilometres north of Wubin, just north of the rabbit proof fence. 

Jibberding Nature Reserve

This camp was an easy day’s drive from Perth, and after having lunch in the historical monastic town of New Norcia (which deserves a longer visit), we arrived at Jibberding in time for a late afternoon tea. Before reaching the camp site we visited the Wubin Visitor Centre, located in the old railway station adjacent to the Wheatbin Museum, to pick up the latest information on what was flowering where. This is always a must when you are on a wildflower drive, as flowering can change from year to year.  Or you could stop prior to Wubin at the Dalwallinu Discovery Centre. 

New Norcia

Jibberding Nature Reserve is an attractive free camping spot as it is well off the highway amongst trees, and we were not bothered by passing traffic after around 9pm in the evening. The compacted sand-gravel area is good for caravans, camper trailers and tents, but as with many free camping areas, there are no facilities. This was the first time we had camped overnight at Jibberding, but we knew it well as a favoured stopping spot on our way north. 

After setting up our camp we took a walk around the area to see the wildflowers which included white paper lillies, yellow and pink everlastings, velleias, and white daisies, as well as flowering shrubs. 

Below you can see our campsite, part of the Number 2 rabbit proof fence, yellow, white and pink everlastings. 

 Now known as the State Barrier Fence, the 1166 km long Number 2 Fence, and the 1837 km Number 1 Fence, stretches from Cape Keraudren on the North West coast to Starvation Harbour on the South coast. Completed in 1907 the fence was constructed in a failed attempt to keep rabbits and other agricultural pests out of Western Australia’s pastoral region.  People passing through this area until the 1950s had to stop to open and shut the gate in the fence.

Rabbit Proof Fence - in somewhat disrepair

 Our way to Cue we took a short detour down Goodlands Road as we had seen the amazing Wreath Leschenaulta - Lechenaultia macrantha - here before, although we had been told there wasn't much of a display this year. We were lucky to find a few plants.  This unique plant loves graded gravel road verges and it is most sort after by tourists on a wildflower drive. 

Wreath Leschenaultia

From here through to Paynes Find we saw lots of everlastings on the side of the road. These are paper lilys - Laxmannia grandiflora-

Arriving in Cue around mid-afternoon the next day we booked into the Cue Tourist Park which is located a convenient stroll into town.  We hadn’t stayed in Cue before, though we had passed through many times on our way north, so I was looking forward to exploring properly. 

Located 650 kilometres north-east of Perth, Cue was once a wealthy gold mining town at the centre of the Murchison goldfields and known as the “Queen of the Murchison”. At its peak Cue had a population of around 10,000. The is still mining in the area, although Cue’s population is now only around 280.

A very helpful assistant at the Cue Community and Visitor Centre, located in the magnificent Government Buildings, helped us with maps and information about the area, so that we could set out to explore the next day.  These buildings were built from locally quarried stone and originally housed the Warden's Court, Post Office and Police Station. Completed in 1896, additions were made in 1897 and 1898.

 Although the town is named after prospector Tom Cue, gold was found in Cue on 1^st January 1892 by Mick Fitzgerald and his aboriginal companion, Governor. Within days the alluvial patch became the scene of a huge gold rush, coinciding with WA’s gold mining boom. The town grew rapidly and by 1894 thirteen companies operated gold batteries.

Cue's rich history has been preserved in its magnificent buildings, many constructed from locally quarried stone at the turn of the century.  

A 2.7 kilometre Town Heritage Walk Trail takes in 13 sites of historical interest, starting with the Gaol located at the caravan park, and including the impressive Government Buildings, Gentleman’s Club, Masonic Lodge, Railway Station and the bandstand Rotunda. The cultural and architectural significance of Cue’s main street, Austin Street, precinct has been recognised by the National Trust of Australia (WA). 

Clockwise below you can see - The Gentleman's Club, Rotunda with the old Bank of New South Wales behind,  detail of the Masonic Lodge, detail of balustrading, the Cue Hotel, and the Masonic Lodge. (Built in 1899 of timer and corrugated iron with a pressed tin interior - corrugated iron was used extensively throughout the goldfields at it was easily transported by camels).

 A 13 kilometre drive trail includes the Great Fingal Mine Office at Day Dawn mine, built by Italian stonemasons in 1902 (unfortunately you can now only view through a fence because of mining restrictions), and the ruins of old hospital. A drive up to the Cue lookout gives you good views over the town.  Below you can see the Great Fingal Mine Office. 

 Further afield, a must see is Walga Rock 48 kilometres west of Cue on Austin Downs Station. Known to local Aborigines as Wolgarna Rock or Walgahna Rock, it is the second largest monolith in Australia, after Uluru in the Northern Territory. Walga Rock is five kilometres in diameter, 1.5 kilometres long and 478 metres high.

Walga Rock has the largest gallery of Aboriginal rock paintings in the Murchison.  The 60 metre long gallery of over 988 motifs is located under a sheltered overhang on the western side, a short distance from the carpark.  Dated with radio-carbon tests by archaeologists to be about 10,000 years old.

The most unusual painting is of a sailing ship. 2 metres high and 325 kilometres from the coast, with details of masts, rigging and portholes and what appears to be Arabic- style writing underneath the painting. Dating has proved difficult and there is speculation and many theories about its origin. Could it have been drawn by an aboriginal who had been to the coast? One theory is that it was made by a Dutch sailor shipwrecked on the coast and looked after by aborigines. Another theory suggests it was made by an Afghan camel guide.  Experts are still puzzled and perhaps its real origins will never be known, but it is certainly fascinating to ponder over.

Camping is not permitted at Walga Rock, but it is a great place for a picnic, and you can drive along the track around the base of the rock. We stopped numerous times to view the rock and wildflowers.  Please remember this is a site of deep cultural and spiritual significance to the Aboriginals and be respectful when you visit.  

Please shut the gates and look out for cattle and wildlife on the roadside when driving through the station.  Pet dogs are not encouraged due to poison bating for wild dogs and foxes. 

Below you can see one of the Cassia (Senna) varieties. A shrub or small tree they are an attractive splash of colour.

One of the Cassia varieties

On your way to Walga Rock I recommend visiting the abandoned Big Bell town site, 30 kilometres from Cue. Gazetted in 1936, the town rapidly declined after the mine closed in 1955. There is a site map and interpretive signage to help you explore what remains of the town, including the Big Bell Hotel which evidently once boasted the longest bar in Australia.

I hope you have enjoyed this look at Cue. Thank you so much for stopping by. I value your comments and look forward to hearing from you. I will try to visit your blogs in return. Have a wonderful week.  

You might also like:
 Murchison River camping at Wooleen Station
Kennedy Ranges, Pilbara, Western Australia
Everlasting Magic, mid-west, Western Australia

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