Sunset over spinifex in World Heritage Purnululu, Western Australia

I was very excited to learn recently that I had won the "People's Choice" award for my image - "Purnululu Sunset" - at the  "60 shots @ 6" Photography Competition and Exhibition.

 The brief was to submit images taken half an hour either side of 6am or 6pm. We could submit five images - either "digitally enhanced" or "no enhancement". The 60 selected images were cropped to square and displayed in "cd cases" at the Front Room Artist Run Space at the Bunbury Regional Art Gallery. You can see more about it by clicking here - Front Room Artist Run Space

 The interesting thing about them being this small, is that instead of standing back as you might usually, you really had to stand up close to view the images.  My image was "no enhancement".

When we visited World Heritage listed - Purnululu - in the amazing Kimberley region of northern Western Australia, we went late one afternoon to one of the sunset viewing places - Kungkalahayi Lookout.  Here you can enjoy uninterrupted 360 degree panoramic views and watch the last rays of the sun spreading out over the Simpifex ridges and lighting up the ranges changing them to brilliant orange and reds. People often take a chair and enjoy sunset drinks here. There are also other parking bays along the roads through Purnululu where you can enjoy the sunsets. It is a lovely way to end the day.

It was here that I saw my image "Purnululu sunset". I loved the way the golden light of the late afternoon sun was lighting up the heads of the clumps of spinifex grass. 

I wrote in my diary - "At Kungkalahayi Lookout they have provided benches on which to sit, but we decided to walk over to an adjacent hill, and set up our chairs and camera. It was beautiful, the setting sun setting over the hill behind us, lighting up the Spinifex heads, and turning the rock faces to a brilliant red."

Little did I know then that my image would win a "People's Choice Award"! So exciting - my first photography competition and award and first time I have had a piece exhibited! I have now had my image printed onto canvas to display on my wall at home.

Given World Heritage listing in 2003, Purnululu (also known as the Bungle Bungles) is one of Western Australia’s newest and most spectacular National Parks.   

In the Kija Aboriginal language purnululu means sandstone. The Aboriginal people inhabited the region for thousands of years, however Purnululu was known only to a few Europeans until the mid 1980s.  How it received the name Bungle Bungles remains an intriguing mystery with several explanations including the name of a common Kimberley grass, bundle bundle grass, or the ranges proximity to the old Bungle Bungle cattle station. 

The ranges are the remains of a large sedimentary rock mass laid down about 360 million years ago, uplifted to form ranges, then moulded by erosion and weathering. An outer skin of silica and algae and a patina of iron and manganese oxidation gives the domes the rusty orange and dark grey bandings you see today. Contrary to its solid appearance the sandstone is very fragile. The weight of overlying rock holds the sand grains in place, but when this is removed the sandstone easily erodes demonstrated by the rounded tops of the Domes. 

Purnululu is rich in Aboriginal history and art, and there are many burial sites and places not accessible to tourists. The Aboriginal traditional owners make a valuable contribution to Purnululu through their joint management of the Park and are working with DEC to develop more walk trails for visitors. Visitors are reminded to never remove anything from Aboriginal historical sites.

 Below are some aerial shots I took when we enjoyed a flight from Kununurra. You can take helicopter rides at Purnululu or like we did, a fixed wing flight from Kununurra which included flying over Lake Argyle, the Argyle Diamond Mine, the Ord River plains and the surrounding station country.  It is an awesome experience to see the domes of Purnululu from the air rising dramatically 200-300 metres high out of the flat spinifex grass lands in a maze of domes, rocks, gorges and creek beds.

Purnululu is a perfect place to enjoy a wilderness experience, bush camping, walking, photography and nature observation and I recommend at least a two or three day visit to experience some of what Purnululu as to offer.  There are several walks, ranging from the easy one kilometre Domes walk to a 30 kilometre over night hike through Piccaninny Gorge (oh how I would love to do this one!). Each walk has its own particular characteristics and beauty and photographers should consider using a tripod to assist with the tricky lighting. The walk trails are generally exposed and along uneven rock surfaces and creek beds, so sturdy footwear, sunscreen, hat and carrying water is recommended.  Shaded picnic tables are located at the start of the walks.

My favourite gorge is Cathedral Gorge, and below is one of my favourite images - my husband and sun walking into Cathedral Gorge in the early morning light.They are my travel companions who support me and wait patiently while I take yet another photo! Without them I wouldn't have been able to travel over our beautiful country.

The moderate three kilometre return walk into Cathedral Gorge is one of the most spectacular walks in the Park.  It includes some short steep slopes and narrow ledges (allow one to two hours). The walk terminates within a circular towering amphitheatre, sheltering a central pool. An early morning walk is great for photography as you can capture the light filtering through the gorges and lighting up the rocks.

Cathedral Gorge is well named. Entering its immense towering cavern is like entering a magnificent natural cathedral, a place steeped in time and history. The red and orange sandstone walls tower above you, and the white sand crunches softly underfoot.  Tiny animal tracks can be seen going across the sand to the central pool which sits still and undisturbed like a mirror. It is a place for hushed voices and to sit quietly with your own thoughts. If you come early in the morning, as we did, you can enjoy the peace and atmosphere undisturbed before the crowds arive.  It has the atmosphere of a holy place, a sanctuary. We walked to Cathedral Gorge twice during our stay.

 I have tried to cobble some photos together to show you how immense it is - but this truly doesn't do it justice - 

 We visited Purnululu in July - the winter dry season. It was cold at night and hot during the day, so getting up early in the morning to go for the walks is the best idea. We had a lovely shady campsite, and spent the afternoons sitting around camp, reading, having a snooze (my husband), or looking at photos and writing notes (me), or doing Word Slueths (our son). Later in the afternoon we might go for another walk, or get ready for sunset drinks. 

Purnululu is an amazing place to visit. I recommend you put in on your must see places. I am looking forward to a return visit. 

  

Where is it?

Purnululu is located off the Great Northern Highway, 250km south of Kununurra, west of the WA/Northern Territory border. The 53 kilometre unsealed road from the Highway is only accessible by 4WD and offroad campers. It travels through Mabel Downs Station to the Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC) Rangers / Visitor Centre within the park. You should allow approximately 2-3 hours for the 53 km drive in (approximately 5 hours total travel time from Kununurra).

The Park is only open to visitors from April to December depending on weather conditions as during the summer “wet” season the unsealed road into the Park can become unpassable due to washaways and numerous creek crossings. We negotiated seven “wet” crossings during the “dry” season in July. Travellers must come entirely self sufficient with fuel, water, food and mechanical spares, although untreated water is available in the camping areas. On arrival visitors must register and pay their Park and camping fees at the Visitor Centre.  Here you can gather information about the Park, as well as purchasing souvenirs and cold drinks, so it is a good place to start your visit to Purnululu.

 For more information:

Department of Environment & Conservation, Kununurra. Phone 08 9168 4200

Purnululu Visitor Centre – April to December. Phone 08 9168 7300

DEC Nature Base – Nature Base

 Kimberley Australia Travel Guide: Kimberley Australia

Kununurra Visitor Centre - Kununurra Tourism

Western Australian Tourism  - Australia's North West

Want to see more?

I hope you have enjoyed this little visit to this spectacular part of my State. Would you like to read more? 

Please see my blog posts - On the Road in the Kimberley

and Catching the light in the chasms of Purnululu

 and my articles in  November 2011 edition of On The Road Magazine. 

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