Red Rock & Spinifex, Karijini, Western Australia

KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK, PILBARA, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

The only thing that breaks the silence of the piccaninny dawn at Karijini is an orchestra of birdsong and the effect is simply stunning.

By 6.30am we had walked to the rim of the gorge to watch the sun rise. The birdsong was an overture for what we were about to witness on central stage.

Before us we watched the sky turn from pinks and mauves to orange and yellow, and then as the sun’s rays shot over the eastern horizon I turned to see the mountain behind me come alive and light up an incredibly rich, vibrant red. Whilst at my feet the Spinifex heads turned to gold.

We were at Dales Gorge in the heart of Karijini National Park in the Hamersley Ranges in Western Australia’s central Pilbara district.

Western Australia's second biggest national park, Karijini covers 627,445 hectares. Much of the southern half of the park is inaccessible, so visitors concentrate on the spectacular and rugged gorges in the north that plunge hundreds of metres from the Spinifex plains.

It is a wonderful place for walking, sightseeing, photography, camping, swimming and observing nature.

There are a number of gorges and walk trails to explore at Karijini. These range from short, easy walks for people of all ages and fitness levels, tracks for those with moderate fitness, to trails which should only be attempted by fit, experienced, well-equipped bushwalkers.

Fortescue Falls in Dale's Gorge is spring-fed and is the Park’s only permanent waterfall. The Falls tumble over layers of iron-stone rock from the tree lined Fern Pool. A wooden walkway takes you right to the waters edge and the pool is a perfect place to sit in the shade or have a swim to cool off.

The trail following the creek from Fortescue Falls to Circular Pool is not difficult and visitors should allow a day to fully experience the Gorge. Built up over millions of years, the layers of multi-coloured rock of the cliff faces tower over clear rock pools and shady meandering pathways, which are a refreshing retreat from the arid Spinifex plains above you. There are plenty of places to sit and enjoy the beautiful landscape and to marvel at the Snappy Gums whose roots cling to the cliff walls, their white trunks in stark contrast to the red rocks.

The walk finishes at Circular Pool, a deep fern lined pool surrounded by sheer cliffs. Shaded most of the day by the gorge walls, the water is enticing, but icy cold.

To read this complete story, see "Australian Coast and Country" magazine, Autumn 2005