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Sunday, 26 October 2025

Exmouth and the Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia

 Hi everyone, I hope you and yours are doing well. 

Last time I took you to Coral Bay and the Ningaloo Reef along Western Australia's Coral Coast. If you missed it you can see it here - What I Discovered Exploring Western Australia's Coral Coast

From Coral Bay we continued up the North West Cape to Exmouth and the Cape Range National Park - here is a map to orientate yourself. Exmouth is 1,252 kilometres from Perth - allow two days, stopping overnight somewhere on the way. 


It is only 152 kilometres from Coral Bay to Exmouth - not far by Western Australia standards, and we stopped off in Exmouth to fuel up and do some grocery shopping before heading around the top of North West Cape to our caravan park at Yardie Homestead Caravan Park, about 35 kilometres from Exmouth, arriving around 12 noon. We have stayed here a couple of times before, there is plenty of space, and were given a part shade spot to set up. 

Located just out of the Cape Range National Park on the western side of the North West Cape, the caravan park has many facilities including a cafe and swimming pool, and you can take a walk along one of the tracks. 

You might even see a Tawny Frogmouth sitting on its nest and pretending to be a branch! 

After lunch we drove down to the Milyering Ningaloo Discovery Centre, about 20 kilometres from Yardie Homestead, to collect information and find out about the tides and conditions for snorkelling. 

The Ningaloo Reef is one of the largest fringing coral reefs in the world stretching over 230km. There are many opportunities for snorkelling, but you need to be aware of the height of the tides - particularly at the Oyster Stacks where the coral is near the surface. We need to be aware and protect the reef, so please take note of signage and be particularly aware of snorkelling times at Oyster Stacks. Unfortunately the suitable times were very early in the morning, around sunrise, during our visit, so didn't suit us. 

There are several places along the coast where you can snorkel and camp. We have previously enjoyed snorkelling Turquoise Bay but this time the the drift current was a bit strong, so we didn't stay in for long. You need to be careful of the drift that takes you to point and then out to sea. 

We drove down a bit further along the coast checking out some of the other beaches and camping spots, before returning to our caravan at Yardie Homestead Caravan Park, and made our plans for the next day. 

Snorkelling in the shallows at Turquoise Bay

The next morning we went for a 2 hour boat cruise and snorkel on the View Ningaloo Sub Sea Explorer which we climbed on board from the Tantabiddi jetty, about 5 kilometres from Yardie Homestead. 

The sub-sea explorer is a semi-submersible boat, the only one of its kind in Western Australia. Different to a glass-bottom boat where you sit and look through a glass floor, in the sub-sea explorer you are sitting under the level of the water and look out the windows. Very cool, particularly for children and those who can't snorkel. If you click on the link you can see all about it. 



The 2 hour cruise included snorkelling time. They supply snorkels, facemasks, fins, floaty tubes - everything you need. The girls who ran the cruise were very knowledgeable and helpful and we had a lovely morning. Information boards inside the boat showed some of the fish we might see. 


I asked our guide about the marine heatwave and the bleaching of the Ningaloo Reef coral. She said some say 60% of the reef has been lost - some say 80%. It could take 10 years to recover as long as there wasn't another marine heatwave. If you missed my last blog post - you might want to go back and read about global warming and the marine heatwave that has caused the devastating coral bleaching. What I discovered exploring Western Australia's Coral Coast 

The water we were snorkelling in was deeper than we had snorkelled from the shore, and because I only snorkel on the surface I couldn't get any closer photos. But my husband says that you need a weight belt if you want to dive down to take photos. Can you see the little blue fish in this photo - I think these are the Neon Damsel fish. 


I highly recommend this tour with View Ningaloo Sub-Sea Explorer if you are in Exmouth. 

We also snorkelled off the beach at Osprey Bay, as we had been told there were lots of turtles there. We only saw one and he was swimming away so fast he obviously had an appointment elsewhere! I am not sure if you can see the turtle in this photo very well - I only momentarily saw him out of the corner of my eye, turned, and quickly snapped the pic before he disappeared. It probably depends on the time of day you are there to see the turtles. 

You can camp with a caravan or tent at Osprey and it looks to be very popular. You need to pre-book your camping spot on-line with DBCA at the various locations in the National Park. 

Between October and January turtles nest on the beaches of the Ningaloo Marine Park and hatchlings appear from January to April. Turtle eco-education tours operate from the Jurabi Turtle Centre, 14 kilometres from Yardie Homestead, over the summer months from December to March. 

Marine Turtles are threatened species, and the Ningaloo Marine Park offers a fantastic opportunity to learn about and see them in their natural environment. I was amazed how big they are and it was certainly a highlight to see them on the beach on a visit we had to Exmouth years ago. These photos are from that trip. Please do not disturb them. The right hand photo is turtle tracks. 

The 50,581 hectare Cape Range National Park is not just about coral. There are also many walking trails to explore and following good winter rains the wildflowers put on a spectacular show.  The best displays are from June to October.

This is the spectacular Sturt Desert Pea - Swainsona formosa

And beautiful pinky-purple Mulla Mulla. The large one is Ptilotus exaltatus


You'll probably see emus as you drive through the park. They have colour variations depending on the environment they live in. Desert dwellers are lighter in colour. You might even see an emu wandering around the town of Exmouth. 


At the end of the bitumen through Cape Range National Park, a one hour boat 
cruise along Yardie Creek is a leisurely way to view the multicoloured cliffs of the Gorge and its wildlife including Osprey and Rock Wallabies or you can explore it from above along the walk trail. You need to book ahead, and allow plenty of time to get there - about 56 kilometres from Yardie Homestead Caravan Park. Allow at least one hour travel. (88kms from Exmouth - allow an hour and a half)


Below is an endangered Black Flanked Rock Wallaby, a shy nocturnal wallaby that is well equipped for its life on cliff faces. It was so lovely to see them bounding around the rocks of the gorge. 


And this is a Western bower bird decorating its bower to attract a lady


There are also walk trails in the Cape Range National Park. But please aware of the advertised degree of difficulty, your own fitness and ability, and the weather, the length of the walk, wear a hat, carry water and wear good hiking boots.  

We did the Mandu Mandu Gorge walk (35 kms from Yardie Homestead) and didn't take enough notice of the degree of difficulty signage, and it could have gone horribly wrong, but I am fortunately here to tell the tale, so it worked out ok in the end. I won't attempt a Class 4 walk again. 

The walk trail through Mandu Mandu Gorge first takes you along an ancient rocky river bed before returning back along the rim of the Gorge from where you will have spectacular views of Ningaloo coast and the surrounding country. 

Can you see the rock wallaby in the below left image? 

There are very steep sections along the rim walk and you need a reasonable degree of fitness and agility. I don't have many photos of the rim walk as I was too concerned with clambering and climbing up and slithering down rock faces. I was very relieved to get to the end of the walk. Yes the view to the ocean was spectacular. 

Charles Knife Gorge and Shothole Canyons are a short drive south of Exmouth (about 30 kilometres) on the eastern side of the Cape Range.  

The road through Shothole travels through the dry creek bed offering a close look at the colourful rock layers of the canyon walls, whilst a drive along the ridge of Charles Knife Gorge to Thomas Carter Lookout produces sweeping views of the Gorge and Exmouth Gulf.  Around each corner the view is more spectacular than the last, and pull off areas allow you to stop and enjoy the views.

 This photo is views along the Charles Knife Gorge road 

This is Shot Hole Canyon 

With the continental shelf only kilometres offshore, Exmouth and Coral Bay are fishing meccas, and there are plenty of opportunities for land based and boat fishing, but be aware of the Marine Park Sanctuary Zones. There are over 30 game fish species, and you can take advantage of Western Australia’s premier game fishing destination by joining a fishing charter.

Fresh seafood is always on the menu in Exmouth and Coral Bay, and you can't go past a delicious box of fresh Exmouth Gulf Prawns. On our last two visits to Exmouth we have purchased from the Fresh Fish Shack

North West Cape was once a Naval Base and shipping in Exmouth Gulf was bombed by Japanese aircraft in 1943. You can visit the Potshot Memorial near the launching place of the Krait and the Z Force’s “Operation Jaywick” which left from here in 1943 to destroy Japanese enemy shipping in Singapore.

At the end of the day, drive out to Vlamingh Head Lighthouse on the tip of North West Cape, to watch the sunset or to spot Humpback Whales during their annual migration June to November. 

At the lighthouse, which was built in 1912, you can see the remains of a WW2 Aircraft Warning Radar. From the Cape you can also just see the fires from the gas platforms on the edge of the horizon

There are many information panels for you to read more about the history of the lighthouse and WW2 history. 


Over the years the dangerous coastline around the North West Cape contributed to a number of shipwrecks on the reefs. One of these was the SS Mildura. In 1907 the ship had foundered at Point Murat losing all livestock but without the loss of human life. Recognition by shipping authorities of the need for a substantial navigational warning system led to the construction of the lighthouse on Vlamingh Head. 


Today there is a Naval Communication Station Harold E. Holt base 6 kilometres north of Exmouth. This is a joint Australian and United States naval communication station. The station features thirteen tall radio towers which you can see near the tip for North West Cape. The tallest tower is called Tower Zero and is 387.4 metres (1,271 ft) tall. There are information panels at the SS Mildura lookout. 

On our last evening we drove over to the beach for a sunset wander. 


Exmouth has grocery stores, bakery, Visitor Information Centre, museum, tourist shops, swimming pool, caravan parks, resorts, restaurants, repair businesses - all that a visitor would need. You can also visit the Ningaloo Tourist Information Centre and the Ningaloo Aquarium and Discovery Centre

Here is a list of 75 things to do in Exmouth - even taking a microlight flight! Things to do in Exmouth

Best time to visit is April to November depending on what you want to do. Avoid summer December to March when it is scorching hot. I suggest booking accommodation well ahead of your planned visit - ie up to 6 months ahead. 

Below is a photo of a termite mound - of which you will see many on North West Cape. 


More information:

Thank you so much for stopping by. I hope you have enjoyed this visit to Exmouth on Western Australia's North West Cape. Next time we visit Shark Bay and Monkey Mia. 

I value your comments and look forward to hearing from you. I will try to visit your blogs in return. Have a wonderful week. 
I am linking up to the link-ups below. Please click on the links to see fabulous contributions from around the world - virtual touring at its best!

If you are looking for a translate button - it's there near the top on the right hand side. 
   

Hello there! I love reading your comments. If you scroll down to the bottom you can comment too! I would love to hear from you.
Until then, enjoy your day...Life only comes around once, so do what makes you happy, be kind, and be with people who make you smile. 

Sunday, 12 October 2025

What I discovered exploring Western Australia's Coral Coast

 Hi everyone, I hope you and yours are doing well. 

In truth I have struggled to know where to begin with this post or in fact even to write it. But life is not always beautiful. And sometimes we need to highlight what is going on in our world on planet earth. 

But first to backtrack slightly - Last month I started sharing our recent 3 week caravanning trip up along Western Australia's stunning Coral Coast - re exploring Coral Bay, Exmouth, the Ningaloo Reef, Monkey Mia and Shark Bay, and a place new to us - Bullara Station Stay on Exmouth Gulf. 

Here is a map to orientate yourself - 

This is what Tourism Western Australia says about the Ningaloo Reef Discover a colourful universe of coral gardens and ocean life beneath the crystal-clear waters of World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef (Nyinggulu). Dive, snorkel or swim Australia’s largest fringing reef as whale sharks, humpback whales and manta rays glide past in a once-in-a-life-time experience.

ps - the photo above is actually two photos I have put together - the swimmers is one, and the fish another. I don't do much of this - but this one worked! 

Visiting the Ningaloo Reef is truly an incredible experience. We have visited many times in the past, the first being way back in 1986 in our little second-hand caravan with our two young children. 

Back then we virtually parked our caravan just beyond the beach, only a few steps from the water. But over the years Coral Bay has become busier and busier with more and more tourists, more caravan parks, more accommodation options, more boats, more fishing, more tours, more tourism, more infrastructure. Sadly I think they have become a victim of their popularity - in short over-tourism. But of course tourism businesses need tourists to survive. I get it. 

With blue water, white sand, and safe swimming for children - and snorkelling over the coral just metres from the beach - who could resist. 

We also rented our friends house a couple of times at Coral Bay and took our boat so we could go fishing and snorkelling further out. If you are fishing you need to be aware of the sanctuary zones where fishing is not allowed. 

About a 12 hour drive from Perth, Coral Bay's beach is sheltered by the bay and a fringing reef - the World Heritage listed Ningaloo Reef

You only have to swim out a few metres from the shore to see the coral and fish. So beautiful. These are some photos I took back in 2012.

However - For those who think climate change is a myth, I now fast forward to 2025 - see the images below of what we saw - devastating coral bleaching caused by an extended marine heatwave the end of 2024/early 2025 and a weather event that caused the yearly coral spawn to blow up onto the beach instead of attaching to the coral. They say it will take years for the reef to recover - and only if another marine heatwave does not occur. 

I was absolutely devastated to see the result. Bleached, dead, broken coral with a few small fish nibbling on the dead coral. Sorry about the rather indistinct photos - the water was not very clear, seeming to be filled with chalky powdered coral. 


Compare these to the photos I took in 2016 - Coral Bay- Another Day in Paradise


Our son still enjoyed snorkelling in the shallows along the beach where small fish and spangled snapper swim up and down. They do a fish feeding along there a couple of times a week. 

On the radio this last week I heard that the marine heatwave has started again along Western Australia's Coral Coast, and that is why I have decided to write this post. 

The marine heatwave is an obvious example of global warming. It is not a fallacy - it is real and it is right here and now. We can see it everywhere with trees dying, less rain, hotter temperatures, more bush fires, droughts, catastrophic floods, more destructive deadly weather events, and yes - dead coral in previously pristine marine environments. 

It is not me that is saying this - Here is a link to a post from the Australian Institute of Marine Science - Worst bleaching event on record. And there are other similar posts if you care to look on the internet. 

The 2024/25 marine heatwave that brought heat stress to coral reefs off the Western Australian coast was the longest, largest and most intense on record for the state, resulting in the most widespread coral bleaching event ever recorded for WA, scientists and managers say. - Australian Institute of Marine Science. 

It seems that for visitors to Coral Bay today, the only way you can see live coral is to go further out on a boat tour. There are many reputable tour companies that will take you on boat tour where you can snorkel or dive with the whale sharks and manta-rays. Ningaloo Visitor Centre

It is not all bad news - 

Update - 26 October - We caught up with friends today who have been to Coral Bay many times and take their kayaks. They paddling in their kayaks further off the beach and said there was lots of coral - as good as it always had been. There are mooring boys to tie your kayak to. You can hire a kayak from the kiosk at the beach at Coral Bay, and we were thinking of doing that - perhaps if we had stayed longer. Or you can join kayak tour. Next time.....

We were fortunate to be directed to a beach - Five Finger Reef - a few kilometres south from Coral Bay township where we did see live coral just a few metres off shore. But you do need a 4WD to get there as the sand track is quite rough and boggy - particularly in tourist season. 

It was worth the drive. The coral, just a short swim off the beach, was magical. Lots of fish - I loved the little blue ones - and I was so excited to see a turtle! He was undisturbed by us as he nibbled way at his lunch. Magical. This is the Coral Bay that I have always loved. It stills exists but you have to go further to find it. 

The Ningaloo Coast is recognised as one of the world's most important nesting grounds for both green and loggerhead turtles.



We spent four nights in the caravan park in Coral Bay, walked along the beach, snorkelled, bought cream donuts from the bakery - a must - and on the last night ate fish and chips while watching the sunset. Coral Bay and the Ningaloo Reef can be and still is magical. I do fear however for its long term survival in the face of global warming and over tourism. 

Next time we will continue our journey along the Coral Coast to Exmouth and more from the Ningaloo Reef.  

I hope you have enjoyed - and learnt - something from my recent travels to Coral Bay. We need to protect our most precious resources. 

By the way - the camera I used for these photos is a waterproof, shock proof, Olympus Tough TG-6 - a great little go anywhere camera. It is waterproof to 50 feet, and you can get a waterproof housing for deeper depths to 150 feet. There is now a newer TG-7 on the market. 

You might also like:

Coral Bay - 2012

Coral Bay - 2016

Life in Beach in Western Australia - 2013

Thank you so much for stopping by. I value your comments and look forward to hearing from you. I will try to visit your blogs in return. Have a wonderful week. 
I am linking up to the link-ups below. Please click on the links to see fabulous contributions from around the world - virtual touring at its best!

If you are looking for a translate button - it's there near the top on the right hand side. 
   

Hello there! I love reading your comments. If you scroll down to the bottom you can comment too! I would love to hear from you.
Until then, enjoy your day...Life only comes around once, so do what makes you happy, be kind, and be with people who make you smile.